Through random circumstances, one finds the need to make detours. One such example is the information we found in an old India guidebook which we looked at to pass away the time as we waited for our dinner at a small Tibetan restaurant.
There I found references to what seem like amazing archeological sites — the Ajanta and Ellora caves, ancient Buddhist ruins in the south of India. I couldn’t pass up the chance to see them when I’m already here. I decided to cancel the Sarnath retreat to be able to make the trip down south.
I was craving for shaptak and decided to go to Main Point which is what the man in the Tibetan restaurant last night recommended. It was not as good as at Tenyang. For dinner, I had to go back to Tenyang to taste the real shaptak.

I then decided to go back to Cafe 129 (the Tibetan Korean Friendship cafe) and hang out there. Some Korean and Tibetan nuns came and said they were hungry but Tsering (I learned that was the proprietor’s name) didn’t know how to cook anything except pizza. The Korean woman, Tsering’s wife of 10 years, was away in Korea. It was funny to listen to them. I got a special Hong Kong coffee which was served as espresso and masala tea separately. I decided to combine them — there couldn’t be another way to drink them, in my mind. It was exquisite. Tsering made it but was not sure if what I did was right.

I got to chat with Tsering. He is Tibetan, born in the village of Bir, two hours away. He told me it is in nature, with many monasteries and one of the best places for paragliding in the world. Another case of learning something important by chance. I told him I regret I didn’t know about it earlier because I would have preferred to stay in that place than the busy McLlo. Tsering also told me he spent time in the Bay Area working with Give2Asia which I remember Ozzie mentioned to me — he wanted me to meet the CEO whom he met when a group of them decided to give a gift when they turned 50. We chatted about Tibetans in Manila (apparently there are) and how he has not taken Indian citizenship. I had understood it is something political. Like many Palestinians in Jerusalem.

This is my last full day in Dharamsala and it wasn’t what I expected it to be. For one, it was less spiritual because McLlo is really a tourist town. But what amazes me is that I still enjoyed it and I am not bothered. Is this true equanimity? Perhaps.
I seem to be still trying to prolong my time in the hedonistic world. The pull is strong. I am hoping once the first retreat starts, things will fall into place and the real inward journey can begin.
I want to finish Analayo’s book on the Satipatthana Sutta before the start of the first retreat.
My meditation has not been good (if there is such a thing) in the last month or so. I find the mind too restless. It’s become less patient that I find sitting 30 minutes harder than it used to be. I love my zafu.